CategoryHackerspace

Cooling with compressed air

Just a short post on the current state of compressed air cooling.

I am currently testing the Merlin extruder, i decided to name it in the same way as the hotend since the two belong together, which uses compressed air from an aquarium membrane pump (bubble pump). A medium size pump is sufficient for one hotend and one part cooler.

I made the mistake of ordering a larger pump than needed, which makes the printer unnecessarily loud due to to much air hissing out of the small gaps. On the up side, i might be able to push the Merlin hotend beyond 260°C with this. 🙂

 

Compressed air part cooler

Merlin Extruder with compressed air hotend and part cooling

Merlin Extruder with compressed air hotend and part cooling

Merlin extruder with compressed air cooling

 

 

Esun ePC and the Duo Cube

ePC Benchy01 ePC Benchy02

For testing purposes i bought a spool of the new Esun ePC polycarbonate from RepRapWorld. While not cheap it isn’t actually very expensive with €20 for 1/2 Kg. Given that the Merlin Hotend uses a PTFE inliner i was a bit sceptic if it would withstand the 255°C, but no problems turned up at all.

As can be seen in the images bridging does not seem to be optimal, there are even some holes in the top surfaces, something that did not happen with a simpler testprint before. Maybe a bit slower print speed (this one was done with 130 mm/s default in S3D) or maybe lower temperature will help. The stability is good, i destroyed an earlier print using a pair of pliers and i had to use quite a bit of force. Also noteable, the layer adherence was excellent, the part did not brake along layers at all.

Given the very good heat resitance (even better than ABS) i think i will find a lot of uses for machine parts, especially extruder parts since according to Esun the ePC material is not inflamable.

One thing to note, the ePC did not stick to glass when i used 3DLac, i had to print it with an ABS raft, easy enough with the DuoCube 🙂

Duo Cube is alive

thing92556halfsize

Thing 92556 printed @ 50%

 

 

The Duo Cube works just fine, dual printing now as well

DuoCube dual color testprint

Z Axis setup for the Duo Cube

At the top the M8 threaded rod is mounted using an axial ball bearing, so it just hangs down from it.
At the lower end it goes through a radial bearing that is mounted from the bottom. The pulley is mounted in a way that the whole screw is tightened slightly, that way it never bends but will always be straight.
I use an axial bearing at the top since the load is the weight of the X assembly plus the tension on the screw, while at the bottom i only use a radial bearing since it mostly has to cope with the pull of the belt and in axial direction only with the tension force.

Z-Axis-01 Z-Axis-05 Z-Axis-04 Z-Axis-03 Z-Axis-02

Using Sinterbronce bearings

This popped up a couple of times on the reprap forum.

Often people ask what bearings to use and i am surprised how often the recommendation is LM8UU for linear bearings.

While LM8UU are cheap (at least the low quality ones) and easy to source, they come with some drawbacks. Ballbearings like LM8UU are designed to withstand rather high loads, much higher loads than are usually encountered when building 3D printer. They are also comparably loud and bulky.

For me sinterbronce bearings are a much preferable alternative for most cases.

They are cheap, even the quality stuff, they are silent, small and very easy to use.

Here are a few images on how i use them for linear motion.

 

x carriage

DSCN1033_small DSCN1032_small DSCN1029_small DSCN1028_small DSCN1024_small DSCN1022_small

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see i only use the rather thick walled variation, they don’t deform easily, which makes it much easier to use them.

The images show the use for the X carriage of my Duo Cube printer as well as the use for Z. Depending on load and available space i either use zip ties or counter plates to mount the bearings.

The rendering shows the shape of the mount. It only holds the bearing in the middle and stops it from leaving the mount. Other than that it can rotate rather easily, which makes it super easy to align the bearings.

I have been using this type of mount in various prototypes over the last year and never had any problems, on the contrary, the precision fit is first class, even the small X carriage has no noticable give at all, but runs smooth and easy.

 

Silicone Sleave for Merlin

After i did the cover that you can mold around the Merlin heater block, i wanted to make a sleave that can be put over the heater.

The mold comes in three parts, just drill up the holes to 3mm and assemble the parts with M3 screws to hold them tight. It is strongly recommended to use PTFE spray or other any other separating agent. The resulting sleave has a thickness of 1mm and can be easily ripped.

I recommend printing the mold in high quality to get a smooth surface, the silicone will show every small fault of the print.

MerlinSleave03 MerlinSleave05 MerlinSleave04Heatblock Sleave 03

Silicone cover for Merlin Hotend

Thomas Kramm from Hackerspace FFM created some nice Silicone sleaves for the Merlin hotend. Since he uses different heating elements than I, he uses shorter ones that I currently don’t have, I created an own version of this cover.

It protects against blisters 😉 and will reduce the amount of heat lost during print. With the cover the already printed parts will not be exposed to the heat as much as without and you can be a lot less discriminate with material cooling.

You can find the STL for the mold attached

I used silicone meant for tin molds, it holds up till 450°C and i think it will last quite a while at the <300°C it is used in this case.

I used Troll Factory Type 3 silicone

 

 

MerlinCover01 MerlinCover02 MerlinCover03 MerlinCover04 Heatblock Cover

Hackerspace Frankfurt zieht um

Ab Anfang September findet der Hackerspace Frankfurt sein neues Heim in Oberursel. Wir freuen uns auf deutlich größere Räume 🙂

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